The least we can say is that the month of October is rich in new watchmaking products. After the big return of the Nautilus and then the announcement of the release of a French micro-rotor movement by Yema, it is the turn of the Breitling Replica brand to make headlines. Here is the new Chronomat GMT freshly announced by the Saint-Imier brand.
The Chronomat collection
When we mention Breilting, many immediately think of the Navitimer, and we wouldn’t blame them. But it is important to remember the importance of the Chronomat collection in the catalog of the Swiss brand. Unveiled in 1984, this watch greatly contributed to the survival of Breitling after the quartz crisis. After a few years of dormancy, it will be relaunched in 2020. If in the 1940s the word Chronomat referred to the mathematical chronograph, the modern reference is an association of the words “chronograph” and “automatic”. However, here we forget the chronograph function in favor of a GMT complication, allowing the display of a second time zone.
An atypical bracelet
Let’s focus on the frame of this new series. This is a steel bracelet with a unique design which gives this version all its character. Built on a fine roller shape, it provides a dressed look (thanks to its polished-brushed finish), while offering optimal comfort. It was initially unveiled in the 1980s, on the original Chronomat models, before being replaced by more conventional steels. It is not an integrated bracelet, but a traditional steel one connected to the case by an end piece (also called an “endlink”).
More contained proportions
The time for Breilting watches in 46mm diameter seems to be behind us. With its 40mm diameter, 11.7mm thickness and 47.4mm horn-to-corner distance, the brand continues to reduce the airfoil while maintaining a fair balance and a beautiful presence on the wrist. We maintain a precious and practical watertightness at 20 bars, made possible thanks to its crown and its back both screwed.
5 soberly colored variations
For this big release, Breitling didn’t do things by halves, unveiling 5 color variations. On the menu: black, blue, green, white and anthracite gray. All in a sunray finish that matches perfectly with that of the case, and with a common denominator: the red GMT hand. Note that the latter points towards a 24-hour flange allowing reading of the second time zone, while its rotating steel bezel retains its timer function.
An automatic GMT movement
Under the hood, or rather behind the solid caseback, we find the Breitling caliber 32, an ETA 2893-2 base modified by the brand. More technically, it oscillates at 28,800 vibrations per hour, offers 42 hours of autonomy and displays precision certified by the COSC like all Breitling watches. You will need to budget €5,550 to acquire one of the 5 variations offered. We would have liked a manufacture movement for this price, but the careful level of finishing and the roller bracelet provide a singular and effective aesthetic.