The manufacturer from Le Brassus has just shown a whole range of new models prepared for the first half of 2024. Among them, among others: the redesigned CODE 11.59 in steel and a ceramic version of the original Royal Oak Offshore.

A few days ago, in the snow-covered Le Brassus (less than 60 km from Geneva), Audemars Piguet presented some of this year’s new watches. For several years now, the manufacturer has not exhibited at any large industry event, emphasizing its independence not only with the distribution format (its own boutiques, called Audemars Piguet Replica House), but also with the presentation of new watches. AP does it in its own style, consistently relying on history, icons and watches that have yet to achieve this title. Here are, in our opinion, the most interesting of the new AP models.

CODE 11.59 in steel

Let’s start with probably the most controversial watch in the AP portfolio. I remember well the first time I saw the debut of the CODE 11.59 collection during SIHH Geneva in 2019. I remember because my dismay matched that of others watching, although I was not nearly as fierce in my criticism as some. The fact is that CODE 11.59 turned out to be an absolute revolution, which was a general shock for a brand so strongly associated with specific watchmaking aesthetics (i.e. Royal Oak). However, the collection was defended from the beginning by the CEO of AP – Francois-Henry Bennahmias – guaranteeing its future success and development with further models and improvements.

You could read what I think about the CODE 11.59 concept itself and how I rate this watch in the extensive review of the Chronograph model HERE. Previously available only in precious CODE materials, now for the first time it will be offered in a steel collection that perfectly suits the sporty character. There are six new references in total – four made entirely of steel and two made of a combination of steel and black ceramics.

Moreover, AP has introduced a number of cosmetic changes and a completely new dial to the new CODEs. The watch cases, both in the Selfwinding and Selfwinding Chronograph versions, are 41 mm in diameter and have a modular structure, which consists of a central, octagonal element with a mechanism, glasses and a dial, and attached to it – a narrow bezel and a cover with skeletonized lugs. In the new version, the crown has been slightly modified, giving it a more comfortable and ergonomic shape. However, the proverbial devil is in the dial. Audemars Piguet, together with guilloche expert Yann von Kaenel, designed a concentric, three-dimensional pattern that is embossed on the basis of a hand-made matrix.

There have been no changes (apart from the new, gold rotor) in the mechanical side of the watches. CODE 11.59 Selfwinding is powered by the automatic caliber 4302 with a 70-hour power reserve. The Selfwinding Chronograh is an in-house caliber 4401 with the same reserve. All watches are fitted with new rubber straps with a fabric-like texture, calfskin lining and a steel buckle.

Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph Ceramic

Bowing to fans of the sportier, larger Royal Oak – the Offshore version – AP presented the first edition of the Selfwinding Chronograph 42 mm model (based on the original reference from 1993) in black ceramic. Not only the case but also the watch bracelet are made of this hard and scratch-resistant material, which AP uses boldly and quite often – the whole thing is, of course, finished to a standard identical to that of steel or gold models. Several structural elements are also made of titanium.

Paired with a black exterior, Audemars Piguet matched a black, monochromatic dial decorated with Petite Tapisserie guilloché. There are three small dials on the main dial: a 12-hour counter, a small seconds counter and a 30-minute counter. Place at altitude 3 was occupied by the round date window. There is some glow-in-the-dark lumino on the indexes and hands.

Royal Oak Selfwinding 37 Turquoise

Although the classic Royal Oak is associated with a characteristic guilloché dial (often handmade on antique guilloche dials), sometimes AP departs from the rule and proposes something different. In the new version, wrapped in yellow 22 ct RO gold, the dial is made of natural turquoise.

The 37 mm watch case and bracelet are made of yellow gold, finished with satin finishes and contrasting polishes typical of RO. The casing is 8.9 mm thick and is closed on both sides with sapphire glasses. Under the caseback is the in-house automatic caliber 5900, premiered a year ago. The watch has a power reserve of 60 hours and a balance mounted under the full bridge, which ticks at a frequency of 4 Hz.

Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin

The “Jumbo” model – for many the most iconic Royal Oak in history – will now be available in a new, limited edition. AP equipped the flat watch with a grained dial.

Measuring 39 mm in diameter and only 8.1 mm thick, the model is made of white gold. Inside the case there is a relatively new caliber 7121, introduced only a year ago. The movement is only 3.2 mm thick and has a full 55-hour power reserve plus a date complication. The movement is powered by an 18ct rose gold rotor.

The highlight of the new Jumbo is its grained dial. In its design, AP was inspired by the 1992 model, which was then shown on the 20th anniversary of the Royal Oak model. The dial of the reference 16202BC is navy blue, and the color is created thanks to a PVD coating, finally covered with a special layer of transparent varnish. The dial is composed of slim hour markers, a pair of gold hands, the AP logo applied at the bottom and a date window at