The rose gold Patek Philippe Replica Aquanaut Luce annual calendar, reference 5261R-001, is aimed primarily at women. But he could definitely also find favor with men. The non-binding price is 60,480 euros, of course in accordance with equal pay. The watch scores points with these fine details.

Pioneer of the annual calendar

There are several ways to get to the new Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce annual calendar, reference 5261R-001. They started in the early 1990s. At this point in time, people in Geneva were of course aware of the fact that no one could fool the traditional family business in the field of calendar mechanisms for pocket watches and wristwatches. The first patent for a perpetual calendar dates back to 1889 and it was only thanks to Patek Philippe that this complication found its way onto the wrist for the first time in 1925.

1941 brought the first small series wristwatch with a perpetual calendar, 1962 the first with an automatic movement, and 1986 brought another calendar patent related to the reference 3940.

In this sense, mechanisms that theoretically work without manual correction until 2100 undoubtedly represent the ultimate in calendar technology. In the early 1990s, however, the view emerged that it does not necessarily have to be “forever”. A project initiated in this regard resulted in the Swiss patent with the number CH 685585 G on March 1, 1996.

The protected world premiere was a new type of mechanical memory that stores the different month lengths from March 1st to February of the following year. The developers did not program the variable length of the shortest month with 28 days in normal years and 29 in leap years. Here, however, a small press of a button is enough to prepare the innovative calendar movement for another 365 days.

Compared to classic perpetual calendars, whose elaborate cadrature consists primarily of levers, ratchets and locking springs, cams and racks, the annual calendar in question uses a sophisticated gear train and therefore exclusively rotary movements. The back and forth of the traditional perpetual calendar is no longer necessary.

Precisely crafted tooth profiles ensure smooth power transmission and only minimal friction. In addition, an intelligent isolator ensures that the date disc moves with almost no mechanical resistance. The moon moves precisely on its axis. It only deviates from the astronomical norm by just one day after a good 122 years. Despite the seemingly simple function, the product developers did not save money. The annual calendar module with moon phase display alone requires around 130 components.

The day of the week and month are displayed analogously using pointers, as was the case with the first reference 5035. Alternatively, the hands can also be replaced with discs rotating behind the dial. The date is always indicated through a window.

aquanaut

The second path begins with current Patek Philippe President Thierry Stern. His first design work debuted in 1997 in the form of the steel Patek Philippe Aquanaut, reference 5060A. This watch was intended as a cheaper alternative to the Nautilus. The first prize was around 4,250 euros.

Philippe Stern, co-father of the Nautilus and the company’s president at the time, described his son’s creation as a “modern wristwatch that is deliberately aimed at a younger target group.” By the way, we have described Patek Philippe’s long successful period under Philippe Stern here.

With its contrasting decor of satin and polished surfaces, the striking glass edge, and a skilful, porthole-like synthesis of octagon and round shape, the Aquanaut watch presented itself as an unmistakable offspring of the recognized neoclassic Nautilus and thus of course also of the watch brand Patek Philippe.

Thierry Stern consciously viewed the avant-garde design as a visual unit, coupled with high recognition value. The most striking feature of the dial: twelve Arabic numerals, made of white gold. The hands for hours, minutes and seconds are also made of white gold. Luminous material allows optimal readability under almost all lighting conditions. A tropical bracelet with Calatrava folding clasp ensures a secure and comfortable fit on the wrist.